Thursday, July 30, 2015

Tuesday July 21 to Sunday July 26 - South Africa Week 1

As there is in some ways less of a variety of things that go on now I am breaking my blogs up more into a weekly read than a day by day accounting. Every day we did something different in Botswana so it made more sense but it was also a bit difficult to keep up with. Internet access in South Africa can also be painfully slow and reminds me of the days of dial up. That could just be the free stuff at the cafes but perhaps you have already noticed I am behind as when I am posting this I am well into the 2nd week.


It is a little hard to think that already one week has gone by and that I am inside of three weeks left. I am actually only here for 3 ½ weeks due to traveling time and I can tell it is going to go by very quickly. The vibe is very different than Botswana and Cape Town is also “Party Town” for Projects Abroad volunteers. There are a lot of volunteers here in Cape Town, I am guessing around 400, and they are mostly 16 to 24 and go out to the bars most every night. I’m a little old for this and feel like a dad if I do so call me lame but I am not as into the party scene as they are. As I may have mentioned before, I don’t think they look at me that way, I’ve noticed from coaching at U Chicago that 20 somethings don’t tend to think about age as much. It is really the older folks go do this so it is true that it is all in my head. But my head tells me that I am a bit too old to be partying every night.

My first day in Cape Town was what is called “Induction.” This is where I go into the office, get shown a Power Point on what to do and what not to, they ask me some questions, show me around a bit and give an overall lay of the land. Mishak picked me up early and took me to the train that I will be using on a daily basis and I bought a one week train pass, which I proceeded to loose within 24 hours, so I got to pay double for it this week. I also went out and got a cheap phone to use. Cheap is the key word as it was 250 Rand, around $22 and it totally sucks. The phone keys constantly get pushed in my pocket and when I went to use it I could not because the minutes were not activated and they did not give me the paper to do so. So I have not even used the phone yet and all my minutes are gone. So over the weekend I went and got another phone and this time made sure it worked before leaving. Everything here is done via social network on Facebook so I sprung for a more expensive one that I can get on the Internet with. I should also be able to use this phone in Peru and Europe by changing the SIM card so it is probably a good buy at 600 Rand / $52 dollars.

The surfing project is run by a guy named Chrisjan and I took a liking to this guy right off the bat. I am guessing he is in his late 20’s and he took over the project for PA about 4 months ago and is currently working on a PhD in Psychology. I’m not sure who found the place we work out of but before they were working out of a trailer off the beach and now we have a cafĂ© about 2 blocks from the beach that the project is run from. Chrisjan brings in multiple groups from Monday through Thursday to go out surfing and in addition to teaching how to do it, the program is used as an outreach as well. I only started on Wednesday but he typically has on average a morning and afternoon group that comes in. The kids are in school in the morning so the groups are adults that are in drug rehabilitation or kids who are in a detention center. In the afternoon he brings in kids from the local high school a couple times a week and some elementary kids from the local township.


Thus far I have just met the high school and elementary kids as well as a few of the guys in the adult rehab program. The high school kids are easy and already know how to surf. Additionally they have a fitness trainer/coach that comes with them so there is not much to do other than to supervise and practice surfing, they pretty much take care of themselves. The adult rehab program seems to be the same but due to a flu outbreak there were only two guys this week, both in their mid or late 20’s. The little kids take more supervision and I am told they can be a bit “naughty”. But they were apparently a bit chilled the one day I have worked with them thus far and other than to count heads and help them catch a wave and work with them in the surf, it was not that hard.


There was a shark attack on a professional surfer, Mick Fanning, during a competition in Jeffries Bay the Monday I arrived and the adults and kids this week were all worried about sharks. It was a great white and the video was kind of scary, I am not sure how much of it made the news in the States but it got a lot of buzz here. The guy was fine and all that happened was his leash was bit in half and the shark got a punch to the head, but otherwise no injuries or even equipment damage.


I’ve not really been worried about it however, don’t ask me why perhaps it is just ignorance on my part. But the guy who got hit was out in deeper water than me and our beach has a shark spotting program in place, so there are always eyes on the hill looking out into the water to call in any activity. Also there is a lot of speculation it was not a real attack but the shark was swimming along and the board leash got into it's mouth and it bit down. Attacks usually happen from underneath and this one was all on the surface.

To date I have been surfing three times now. I seem to be able to get the balance of laying on the board OK but standing up has proven to be very difficult and I have a hard time getting my front foot around and planted where I can stand. It is called the pop up but thus far all I have done is pop off when I try. I have managed to ride the board on my chest or knees for a bit a few times so I think I will get there. It is totally cool and I am excited to have another three weeks of doing this and hope to stand at least once by next week. Friday is our day off so I went over to Strand Beach with a couple of the volunteers to surf over there.

Strand means beach in Afrikaans, so we were literally at “Beach” Beach. The area looks a lot like a modern 80’s version of Miami. So no art deco but a lot of the same pastel colors. I think most of it was built in the 90’s as Chrisjan told us this area of the coast used to be a buffer zone between the National Guard base that sits just to the east and the town of Strand, inland a bit. During the time of Apartide, this base was the chemical warfare area and run by a guy nick named “Dr. Death.” The area of the coast was grassland full of cows, the idea being if they saw a bunch of cows dropping dead they knew they had a leak and needed to evacuate the nearby town. I don’t know how often this happen but it was crazy to think that was only around 25-30 years ago. I don’t know a lot about Apartide but Chrisjan said that South Africa was teetering on full blown civil war and not far from what Syria has been the past few years. They pulled back at the last second and avoided it but some of that legacy can still be seen today.

Physically surfing is not as hard as I thought it would be but my body is getting a bit banged up. Not sure why but both my feet are swollen and at least one toe on each foot is black and blue from banging it on the board. The arthritis in my shoulders also aches with the cold water and more the cold air. Winter surfing here is about being wet and cold so probably not the best think for that. It has rained here on Thur and Fri too so it seems like I have been wet for around 48 hours strait.

The weekend was more relaxed although the other volunteers pack in a lot and it makes me feel like I have not been taking advantage of Cape Town so far. I just went shopping on Saturday to buy another pair of pants, long shirt and sox, try to fix my watch band that broke in Botswana (only worked for 12 hours so it looks like a new watch is in order) and replace the junk phone. It seemed like that took the better part of the day but I’m not sure why exactly. In the evening I went into Cape Town to Long Street with Rahul, my roommate from Amsterdam who arrived about midweek. Long Street is a bar district that is very reminiscent of Bourbon Street in New Orleans, except a bit more seedy perhaps.

Sunday we went to a Brai or BBQ at a place called Mzoli’s, which is in one of the local townships. The place was a bit of a trip, essentially a shack where they grill up meat and serve it to you in a huge stainless steel bowl. The township is all around and the place is a bee hive of activity with cars backed up in all directions. It was a great place to people watch but the music is so loud one cannot hear themselves think. And that is not just me being old as other volunteers said the same thing. It was also an all day affair too, leaving at 9:30 and only getting home around 5:00.

It was generally easy to pick out the other PA volunteers, they were usually white, well dressed and looked a bit pretty and soft. The white South Africans were also dressed a bit preppy but had scraggy beards or at least a week or two of not shaving and they looked like they would kick your ass if you pissed them off. People from the township were often dressed in old pants and t-shirts and often had some of the sterio-type accessories you would see in movies. One guy had on a ship’s captain hat, big necklaces, oversized Ray Ban sunglasses and usually scraggly stubble. Black people from outside the township usually were bigger, in some cases very muscular, and better dressed. Mind you I did not go up and ask anybody where they were from to confirm all this as it probably would have been a good way to get my ass kicked, so you would just have to take my unscientific word for it. In any case it was a very interesting place to people watch.
 
The view from my train station in the evening.

 

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