South African's Are Not Pretty

I am not trying to be obnoxious, I would simply not call South African’s a pretty people. I don’t say that to be insulting, just the opposite. South African’s are a rough group and I am rather impressed by their toughness.

Americans and Europeans are what I would call pretty. Overall we have a fairly good and easy life that affords us the luxuries. We have nice cars, nice teeth, good health care, nice houses, and in general cushy jobs. We live a good life overall, which is the goal so that is not a bad thing and I am not suggesting there is anything wrong with it. A lot of people I have meet here love America and want to come without really knowing all that much about it. In general Americans (Canadians included as the 51st state) and western Europeans are fat.

On the other hand, there are no fat South African’s, literally and figuratively. I have not seen a single one in the two weeks I have been here. Instead I find they are tough, resilient and perhaps hard no nonsense people who are quite capable of kicking your ass if you cross them.  They have no problem voicing their disapproval and giving somebody a piece of their mind, and they are hard negotiators, which I am not, and they love it when the tourists come by because they almost always pay full price. I don't believe any self respecting South African would.

I am sure a lot of this comes from the Apartide days when everything was going crazy here and from economic hardships that have come since. For example; several times a week my host family loses power for two hours in “Load Sharing.” The grid can’t handle the need and to prevent collapse they kill the power in rolling blackouts from neighborhood to neighborhood for two hours at a time. There is also a lot of crime here and people live behind big walls, often strung with razor wire or electrified wire at the top to prevent people from breaking in. Guard dogs often live outdoors in peoples courtyards, and even the trails at the parks are lined with barb wire fences to help prevent muggings. One’s wellbeing is a constant concern here and the whole Oscar Pistorius (aka Blade Runner) affair makes more sense to me now.

There is also a genuine friendliness and beauty here too. Everywhere I have gone people have been very friendly and helpful to me. They ask me where I am from, how I like South Africa, what I think of Obama (that is a big one I get a lot.) Despite the fences, yard dogs, and barbed wire, I have never felt threatened or endangered, even when visiting the township slums. That is not to say there are not sketchy characters, I keep an eye on my stuff when I am walking around and there are some places where it is simply not a good idea to go there. I also don’t walk around or take the train after dark which comes at 6:00 pm. But except for the train, that is true in Chicago too so it is not especially troublesome to me.

There is also a lot of art here and I am surprised at how much talent I see. There is lots of one of a kind art created as well as the more touristy mass art souvenirs. But there is lots of art in the every day South African life too, for instance, on Friday while visiting the township many of our surfing kids come from, I was surprised by the contrast of the horrid living conditions and the way the people here tried to make their lives better with art. One place was set up to look like a ship, complete with bridge house, ships wheel and life rings hanging off the house. The make shift gardens were also decorated with homemade art to brighten up the space and you almost forget that you are in the middle of a slum when standing in one. Even the train graffiti is artistic and I am a bit fascinated by it. The quality of the tagging shows talent and they often sign and date them in code as I imagine the consequences of getting caught doing this is pretty dire. One car has been painted up to look like it is made out of wood. I have been trying to get some pictures of them but the station security guards don’t seem very keen on it so I have to be discreet.

South Africans are rabid about their sports teams too and I’ve been told that sports here from a young age is all about pound and grind. In America everybody is worried about concussions and injuries where as here you get your ass kicked and called names if you complain about being hurt. Sometimes by your parents. I am not saying that is a good thing but it goes to show people are raised here to be tough.

Overall I have found South Africans to be very tough no nonsense people, yet friendly and just as quick to have a drink with you as put you in your place if you get out of your line.